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Kanchenjunga Expedition

Grade : Extreme Mountaineering | Max Altitude : 8586m | Accomodation : 6

Remote | challenging | the most exciting expedition in Nepal

About IMA Kanchenjunga Expedition

Kanchenjunga Expedition is one of the coolest 8000m mountain climbing in Nepal with remoteness, and some challenging technical climbing in a huge massif. With spring climbing at its best it can be also climbable in autumn albeit in somewhat difficult snow conditions.

 

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HIGHLIGHTS

  • Technical, physiological challenge
  • Challenging 3rd highest 8000m Climb
  • Safety: Qualification Experience Quality
  • Sherpa Australian company
  • Trained Sherpa Climbing Guides

Departures

Spring 2016:

Apr 2

  • Description
  • Itinerary
  • Services
  • FAQS
  • Map

About IMA Kanchenjunga Expedition

Kanchenjunga Expedition is one of the coolest 8000m mountain climbing in Nepal with remoteness,and some challenging technical climbing in a huge massif. With spring climbing at its best it can be also climbed in autumn, albeit in somewhat difficult snow conditions.

Kanchenjunga Expedition is challenging and interesting from climbing aspect, the scale and scenery of the Kanchenjunga massif. Normal climbing route is along the Kanchenjunga first ascend climbing route from Yalung glacier located on the south side of the mountain. Infinite Mountain Adventure offers safe, interesting and stimulating climbing experience with Sherpa guides we train in technical western style climbing, Mountaineering First Aid and Crevasse Rescue.

Our service focuses on professional clients with safety aspects of the climb being a paramout objective. We provide unique training to our Sherpa guides, helping them to become world standard professional guides.

Our customer focus is on quality of service and comfort of the Base Camp facilities. This leads to better experience and improved summit success rate.

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu|Hotel transfer

Day 2-3: Rest|Preparation in Kathmandu

Day 4: Taplejung Flight|Trek Lalikharka

Day 5: Trek to Khesewa

Day 6: Trek to Mamankhe/7h

Day 7: Trek to Yamphudin

Day 8: Trek to Tarading>

Day 10: Trek to Ramche

Day 11-12: Acclimatization

Day 13: Trek to Octang

Day 14: Trek to Kanchenjunga BC

Day 15-19: Acclimatization|Preparations|BC

Day 20-50: Kanchenjunga climbing period

Day 51: Trek to Ramche

Day 52: Trek to Tarading/6h

Day 53: Trek to Yamphudin

Day 54: Trek to Phumpe Danda

Day 55: Trek to Lalikharka

Day 56: Trek to Suketar

Day 57: Kathmandu Flight

Day 58-59: Kathmandu

Day 60: Airport transfer|Departure

Your adventure price includes:

  • Airport welcome and transfers.
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu.
  • Full board accommodation (B|L|D) en-route to and from BC
  • Mt Kanchenjunga Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • Private transport to and from Kathmandu to the trail-head
  • Return airfare Kathmandu-Sekutar
  • Porters to carry the loads to/from BC
  • Experienced professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen Helpers
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at ABC
  • Quality single tent to each client at ABC with sleeping mattress
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • Expedition grade altitude tents for high camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food
  • EPI gas with stove for high camps
  • POISK Oxygen (4 cylinders per Client and 2 cylinder per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator for each client (to be returned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie Radio set for each client w/radio base at ABC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency calls (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator w/accessories at ABC for charging and power supply
  • Oxygen and Gamow bag w/PAC set at ABC for medical emergencies
  • Expedition duffel bags for each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus for staff
  • Insurance for local team members
  • Complete and comprehensive pre-departure information and support
  • Guided Preparation|Support from Australia by High Altitude Physiologist
  • Farewell Celebration Dinner in Kathmandu

Infinite Mountain Adventure (IMA) operates Kanchenjunga expedition in spring and autumn seasons. Kanchenjunga expedition is a serious physilogical undertaking as well as a technical climb unlike Cho Oyu, Shishapangngma or Everest. The access trek to the Basecamp is very tough with a considerable elevation gained and lost on each day so fitness requirements are high. On the way up to the basecamp we will gain 7520m and loose 3690m. The climbing route is technical with crossing small crevasse field, climbing small ice cliffs, a steep couloir from camp 4 to the summit and some rock scrambling at the summit.

Our guides are experienced and qualified young Sherpas from Kanchenjunga area. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. So apart of professionalism you can expect warmth and genuine hospitality of Sherpa and Tibetan culture.

Our staff is young, energetic and experienced in customer relationship and technical climbing through our training program and practical experience. Our climbers are the only guides trained in western style climbing, critical thinking and ethical behaviour. Our guides are our business partners and participate in profit sharing scheme.

Simply click on SERVICES TAB, where you find all inclusions. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com.

Absolutely not, all your gear will be delivered to the ABC (Advanced basecamp) by porters. If you hire personal guide he will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4, setup your tents and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light load to high camps.

We employ trained high altitude cook. In the kitchen we attempt to provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible. Cook will have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favourites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavours of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In high camps we use freeze dry packet food from 'Country Kitchen' a New Zealand company. They offer variety of flavours, good quality and tasty meals. Your Sherpa climbing guide will also melt sufficient ice for hot water.

The ABC is located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are also very safe however camp 1 location has to be chosen wisely because some parts are prone to heavy snow accumulation during heavy snowfalls. Camp 3 is located above ice cliffs and on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions. Similarly camp 4 is located at the start of steep snow colouir. The ice cliffs will be protected by climbing ropes and rappel stations.

All foreign visitors to Nepal with exception of Indian nationals require Nepali visa. Passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, United States and all European countries are eligible for the visa on arrival. Since spring 2015 Nepali Immigration has introduced computerized automated visa system making arrival Immigration process fast and convenient. For Kanchenjunga expedition you will require 90 days visa on arrival.

Yes from the moment we leave Kathmandu untill we return all food is included in the price. In Kathmandu a breakfast is included in the price but lunch and dinners are not to give you flexibility and choice. Alcoholic drinks as well as bottled drinks with exception of farewell dinner are not included.

Yes the climbing and well as Kanchenjunga Conservation permits are included in the package and we will organize these permits.

Yes our representative will pick you up from the International airport and will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor time of your arrival and we will be there on-time. All you need to do is to collect your luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International terminal is very small. Once you outside the building you see your name displayed by our representative, who will transfer to the hotel.

In Kathmandu we accommodate our expedition clients in 4 star accommodation. On the way to the trailhead we will provide the best accommodation available and as part of the service 3 meals a day will be offered. From the trailhead to the basecamp and back most accommodation will be in tents with some accommodation in local lodges, where possible.

Yes you need 2 sleeping bags, one for the base camp -20°C and one for high camps -30°C. You may want to use -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges and in tents on the way to the basecamp.

Yes we will provide thick quality base matt in the base camp and down filled Thermarest style of airbed for the basecamp and high camps.

Simply click on GEAR TAB, where you find recommended Gear List. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com.

We recommend purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from Keamp8848 in Kathmandu. We use their gear as our personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands but for fraction of the cost. If you require down suit you will need to order it one month prior to your arrival. Please contact us and we will assist you with the order.

You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

IMA recommends quality over price for comfort and safety and long term savings. Quality can be expensive but it doesn't have to be if one select right gear from right OEM. Naturally there is budget advantage of buying from quality Nepali OEM and you will pay 25-50% for similar or better designed Nepali gear comparing to leading US or European brands. We use and recommend Keamp8848 for quality, innovative design and the price. Your guide will direct you to Keamp8848 factory showroom in Thamel located only 5 minutes' walk from hotel De Veda. You should consider purchasing your Gore-Tex climbing/trekking jacket, Gore-Tex over pants, Fleece jacket and down jacket in Kathmandu. Another Nepali OEM to consider is Sonam brand, which has comparable pricing to Keamp8848, however quality of fabric is different and it lacks innovative design features of Keamp8848.

Climbing hardware is readily available in numerous trekking/climbing stores in Kathmandu, so you don't need to bring them on the plane and save the weight of your luggage. We will advise you details within you info pack.

Apply Layering Principle while Trekking and Climbing

While climbing and trekking in any mountainous undulating environment and in particularly at high altitudes where the weather is also a subject to rapid changes one needs to adopt layering principle with clothing to regulate body temperature ensuring that the body temperature stays in comfortable range to prevent excessive sweating followed by rapid cooling. When you start the day wear sufficient number of layers to keep warm but as soon as you feel overheating remove a layer on the go quickly to prevent unnecessary overheating and sweating.

Take advantage of Merino Wool as a first layer

For layer one garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilizes the best quality material. No other company can at this stage (spring 2015) match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breathing-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm.

Utilize Merino Moisture Wicking, Insulation and Antibacterial Properties

The process of taking the moisture away from the body is called wicking. Wool and synthetic fabrics are really good wicking materials hence they are very suitable to wear for hard physical activity such as trekking, mountain biking and climbing. Due to its natural nano-tube construction wool has also antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is Himalayan biking, climbing and trekking. Using cotton shirts for high altitude biking, trekking or climbing is a wrong and dangerous approach, which can lead to hypothermia.

There are few options. Some of our clients take advantage of our Chulu climb scheduled in spring just before the Kanchenjunga expedition. This will give you acclimatization to 6400m, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp2 on Kanchenjunga. If you don't have time or resources you will acclimatize during the trip from the trailhead to the base camp. We will schedule two acclimatization stops on the way to the basecamp, which will ensure a sufficient acclimatization for the ABC.

The Kanchenjunga climb consists of serious of acclimatization climbs to camp1, camp2 and camp3 followed by the summit campaign. These climbs will also serve as carry-over of food and camping equipment to set-up high camps. You will spend about 5-6 nights in camp1 on the way to camp2 and the summit. The trek to camp2 is long from the basecamp and we will use camp1 as a rest/transition camp. We will spend 4-5 nights in camp2, 2-3 nights in camp3 and 1 night in camp 4 on the summit attempt.

The risks during the Kanchenjunga climb are potential to develop AMS, gastric problems or physical injury such as bleeding or frostbites. IMA maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. We have appropriately equipped and up-to-dated First Aid Kit and train staff how to use it effectively. We require each group member to have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite. If required we activate emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet and all rescues are by car and maybe fly-out from Lhasa depending on circumstances.

There are some risks associated with natures' activities such as excessive unseasonal snowfall or landslide blocking the path and potential earthquake. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our adventure, which includes double back-up communication channels to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency.

In case of road block during to massive landslide or earthquake we will evacuate the expedition members via by plane through Lhasa. Such a case is considered emergency evacuation due to natural disaster and the price of airfare should be covered by your travel insurance.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compering to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

Acute Altitude Sickness (AMS) is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.

Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 2,800 metres (9,200ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude thus it is vital you monitor your own health. In principle higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.

Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatise and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?

Most travellers are able to successfully acclimatise by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.

Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor your all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS.We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help you to carry your day pack or change a pace, take extra day rest or descent if necessary.

Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

Kanchenjunga expedition is a very serious physiological undertaking with technical aspect. You should be in general good physical shape to start with. Generally our customers for Kanchenjunga expedition are bike riders or recreational runners and many test themselves with occasional 10km city fun runs or 50km mountain bike rides or 100km road rides. Considerable number of clients have at some stage completed marathon run. You don't need to be competitive just to be able to complete run or ride within average event time. If you completed one of the above within last 6 months you are well pre-qualifying and ready for Kanchenjunga expedition. If you are in a good shape, the only thing you have to do now is 3 month ramp-up before the adventure. You should aim to jog three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain continuous exercise. To prepare for that you should preference outdoor step training or riding hills minimum twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more enjoyable the ride will be and you will also get more benefits out of the adventure.

There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

WHY DO IT?...

Part of doing the adventure is the aspect of motivation, and setting your goals and meeting them. The adventure participation will be beneficial to you in all aspects of your personal and professional endeavours. Our exercise suggestions are designed for you get fitter and hopefully influence your healthy lifestyle as result of the ride.

Please ask us for detailed advice.

The adventure is scheduled during spring and autumn with the climbing window scheduled for monsoon change period, where wind stops at 8000m for a week or so before the monsoon changes direction. The weather in the basecamp will be similar to Everest basecamp. Please check average temperature and precipitation in Lobuche here.

The difference between spring and autumn expedition is change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to cold respectively.

Absolutely, we welcome individual travellers on our fixed departure but we reserve the right to cancel the departure due to insufficient participation and to offer alternative departure or refund your money. We require a minimum group of 6 participants. Naturally we will offer group prices for people joining together as a group. Our adventure calculator will show you adventure of joining us together with friends.

Complete the booking form on the adventure page, select size of your group and required services and find out price for your group. Simply click on BOOK/INQUIRE button and give us required details. We will send you invoice for the deposit of 30% of the trip value. After paying deposit for the trip we will send you booking confirmation and Cho Oyu Climbing Information. The balance is due 2 months prior departure. The deposit as well as the balance may be paid by bank money transfer or by Credit Card via secure PayPal system.

Simply complete BOOKIG/INQUIRE form and specify information you require in the message and we will engage with you by e-mail or if you prefer we will call you at the time convenient to you.

Tour Map:

http://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlhttp://www.8mtb.com/nepal/mountaineering/kanchenjunga-expedition.htmlMount Kanchenjunga south route Camp1Mount Kanchenjunga north basecampKanchenjunga Caravan RouteMount Kanchenjunga (world's third highest peak)

CUSTOMIZE YOUR TRIP

Min Group Size : 6

KTM hotel accommodation
Private transport
Return airfare KTM-Sekutar
Porter service
Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
Experienced Expedition Cook|Kitchen staff
Quality tent in BC w/sleeping mattress
Quality dinning tent at BC w/all necessary kitchen|camping equipment
Shower facility at BC
expedition grade high altitude tents
All necessary climbing hardware and ropes
Highly preferable meals at BC and high camps
Quality high altitude freeze dried food
EPI gas with burner for high camps
POISK Oxygen (4 per Client|2 per Sherpa)
Mask and Regulator
Walkie-talkie set for each client w/radio base at BC
Satellite phone for the emergency call
Solar Panel/Generator
Medical Oxygen set at ABC
Gamow bag|PAC at BC
Expedition duffel bags
Daily wages
equipment bonus for staff
Insurance for local team members
Airport-hotel transfers
Celebration dinner in Kathmandu


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