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ABOUT KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
Kanchenjunga Expedition is one of the coolest 8000m mountain climbing in Nepal with remoteness, and some not too difficult technical climbing in a huge massif. With spring climbing at its best it can be also climbable in autumn albeit in somewhat difficult snow conditions.
Kanchenjunga Expedition is challenging and interesting from climbing aspect, the scale and scenery of the Kanchenjunga massif. Normal climbing route is along the Kanchenjunga first ascend climbing route from Yalung glacier located on the south side of the mountain.
There is also climbing route from Kanchenjunga North Base camp in Pangpengma but is rearly climbed. The access to the climb is very spectacular through remarkable Kanchenjunga Conservation Area containing a Conservation Project sponsored by World Wildlife Fund in conjunction with the Government of Nepal protecting and documenting rich fauna and flora including rare Red Pandas.
FEATURES & HIGHLIGHTS
Here is how to reserve your place on the adventure:
Kanchenjunga Expedition is a very serious physiological undertaking. Despite being lower than Everest, Kanchenjanga climbing route is steep and technical with some ice climbing, mix terrain climbing, and steep snow couloir from Camp 4, short snow traverses and some rock sections before the summit. Mount Kanchenjanga climb presents some objective dangers of avalanche and ice fall between Kanchenjanga Camp2 and Kanchenjanga Camp 4.
Mount Kanchenjunga is one of the least climbed 8000m mountains in Nepal due to its remoteness and technical nature of the climb and it is not as commercialised as lower Manaslu climb or Cho Oyu climb.
Snowy Horizon Adventure operates the Kanchenjanga Expedition from trailhead in Tharpu. You will fly to Bhadrapur and drive to Tharpu; it takes 10 hours to reach Tharpu on a very winding road. The 10 day access to the Kanchenjanga base camp is very strenuous trek with lots of elevation gained and lost first through charming villages, following ridges with stunning views, river valleys and finally along the Yalung glacier to the Kanchenjanga base camp. The return from the expedition is along the same route but it takes only 5 days.
The massif of Mount Kanchejunga forms enormous ridges extending south-north and east-west forming giant X with numerous stunningly beautiful peaks between 6000m and 8000m with prominent peaks of Siniolchu 6888m/22580ft on the East Ridge in Sikkim; magnificent Jannu 7710m/25280ft on the west ridge; Kabru North 7338m/24060ft, Kabru South 7316m/23990ft and Rathong peaks 6678m/21900ft on the south ridge and the north ridge containing Kanchenjunga North 7741m/25380ft with the Twins and Tent Peak extends north to the Tibetan border by the Jongsong La pass 6120m/20065ft.
From the basecamp, the route follows a rocky spur up to 6000m and then it climbs steep snow slopes of Kanchenjanga and the serac to Kanchenjanga Camp 1 at 6200m/2330ft.
From the Kanchenjanga Camp 1 the route follows a short flat horizontal ridge, and then descends on a plateau and cross the plateau to Kanchenjanga Camp 2 at 6400m/20990ft located at the end of the plateau and the bottom of the face leading to ‘the Shelf’, a small plateau on the face of Kanchenjanga a convenient place to set-up Kanchenjanga Camp 3 at 7200m/23600ft.
The route from Kanchenjanga Camp3 continues along plateau with crevasses and seracs to Kanchenjanga Camp 4 7550m/24750ft at the base of big couloir leading to the summit of Mount Kanchenjanga.
From the Kanchenjanga Camp 4 the route is along the Couloir up to 8250m where the Couloir splits in two with the right one leading diagonally to the base of a steep wall at around 8380m grade 5.4 (YDS). Climb the wall to a rocky tower at around 8450m/27700ft called the ‘Bivouac’ from where a short snowy ridge and traverse to the right leads to a Chimney at around 8500m/27870ft. Rappel down the Chimney and traverse to the right on mixed terrain to a snow slope leading to the main summit of Kanchenjanga at 8586m/28150ft.
Kanchenjunga Expedition Itinerary
1 Arrival in Kathmandu 1350m/4430ft, hotel transfer
2-3 Rest and Preparation in Kathmandu
4 Fly to Bhadrapur and drive to Phidim 1040m/3400ft
5 Drive to Sinam/Khamdembe 1550m/5080ft
6 Trek to Khewang 1915m/6280ft; 15km/7h
7 Trek to Yamphudin 2070m/6790ft; 9km/5h
8 Trek to Tarading 2980m/9770ft; 10km/6h
9 Trek to Tseram 3850m/12600ft; 9km/5h
10 Trek to Ramche 4500m/14760ft; 7km/4h
11-12 Acclimatization Rest at Ramche
13 Trek to Octang 4800m/15740ft; 7km/4h
14 Trek to Kanchenjunga Base Camp 5475m/17950ft; 6km/4h
15-16 Acclimatization and preparations at Basecamp
15-56 Kanchenjunga climbing period
57 Trek to Tseram 3850m/12600ft; 20km/7h
58 Trek to Yamphudin 2070m/6790ft; 12km/6h
59 Trek to Khewang 1915m/3340ft 15km/7h
60 Trek to Aap Danda 1020m/3340ft; 14km/5h
61 Trek to Khamdembe 1300m/4260ft; 22km/8h
62 Drive to Phikal
63 Drive to Bhadrapur 2h; Flight to Kathmandu
64 Free day in Kathmandu
65 Transfer to the airport for final departure
Your adventure price includes:
Kanchenjunga Bascamp Service
Full Board Services
Please note that the price includes only necessary services to make it affordable to wide range of clients. There are many options available such as rafting, mountain flights, paragliding, short bike rides around Kathmandu and Bhaktapur and much more. Please let us know if you wish to extend your stay in Kathmandu or Pokhara. We will organize your holiday extension, which will not break your pocket and we will guarantee that you will not get stuck.
LOGISTICS AND CLIMBING SAFETY
Despite of many websites offering Kanchenjunga climbing services, there are only few of companies capable to deliver quality service. Himalayan 7000m and 8000m climbs are logistically and physically serious and expensive undertaking. Any 8000m expedition requires around 60 days in a remote area with supplies have to be trekked in by porters.
Infinite Mountain Adventure offers high quality service in the Kanchenjunga Basecamp during each spring climbing season with strong emphasis on the customer safety. Safety is the most important factor to survive and return back alive and uninjured. Quality of service is an important factor in summit success.
We assist independent, skilled and capable climbers to manage and plan their climbing adventure with our safety and quality logistics support system. Our base camp and high camp service is being tested and improved continuously improving climbing safely with high success rate for our clients.
We believe in quality adventure, climbing safety and comfortable environment for our customers and do not recommend low budget solutions or unnecessary over servicing. We believe that we have achieved right balance of between the level of service we recommend and the safety and quality of the climb.
We offer services of trained and experienced basecamp crew including camp manager, high altitude cooks and basecamp staff.
In preparation to expedition we offer quality reliable advice, comprehensive knowledge, information service in English and training by experienced 8000m western climbers.
Through our network we offer medical testing and simulated high altitude training helping to identify potential high altitude issues.
Infinite Mountain Adventure offers services of experienced, qualified and government certified Climbing Sherpa Guides with experience on the Kanchenjunga climbing route and often multiple 8000m summits including Everest.
In our standard full-board service we recommend and provide 4 Oxygen cylinders and your personal Sherpa will place them in Kanchenjunga Camp 4. You should be able to reach Kanchenjunga Camp 4 without supplementary oxygen.
Kanchenjunga is usually third or even further 8000m objective for most climbers, so with your experience it is reasonable, if you choose, to attempt more challenging style sharing Sherpa services with another climber, which will require carrying some food and equipment to help your Sherpa but it will reduce the overall cost. It is also reasonable to attempt the summit without supplementary oxygen if you have climbed successfully Everest.
In Kathmandu we allow 2 days rest and preparation with an accommodation in a 3 star hotel, all included in the price. We will also offer a full day Kathmandu sightseeing, when you return from the climb as well as we will invite you to Rum Doodle Everest Mountaineers Restaurant for climb celebrations.
We will fly to Bhadrapur and we take a private vehicle to the trailhead in Tharpu. All meals and accommodation in trekking lodges and in the Kanchenjunga base camp are included in the price. We will provide 3 meals per day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and you will be allocated a personal tent in the base camp for the duration of climb.
Our Kanchenjunga base camp is always very well equipped with the kitchen tent, comfortable dining tent, toilet and shower tents. Our professionally trained Kanchenjunga expedition cook will prepare 3 appropriately nutritious meals designed for western tastes and flavoured to make it tasty and easy to eat and digest in the high altitude; cold and hot drinks as well as snacks will be available 24-hours while expedition members are in the basecamp.
For Kanchenjunga Expedition Full board customers, your personal Sherpa Climbing guide will take your supplies, tent and oxygen to Kanchenjunga camp 2, Kanchenjunga camp 3 and Kanchenjunga camp 4, while setting-up the route and he will also prepare high altitude food, while you acclimatise in high camps.
We offer Basecamp Service option for teams of independent climbers on availability basis and departures conditional on minimum number of Full Service climbers.
The Basecamp service will include Kathmandu Service, On-Trek Service, Personal tent in the Basecamp, Food in the basecamp and access to our Basecamp facilities. There will be no service available above the basecamp as our resources will be limited and focus on Full Service clients. Basecamp Service customers will also be responsible for Ice-Fall charges to contribute to the route set-up effort.
As an additional service we would be able to supply oxygen for Basecamp clients as well as Sherpa services with a notice prior to departure.
Location: Nepal/Sikkim Border
Coordinates: 27°42'10"N 88° 8'51"E
Typical Total Duration: 65 days
Typical Climb Duration: 41 days
Grade: Extreme Mountaineering
Required Skill: Extreme personal fitness