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Chulu East Peak Climbing

Grade : Technical climbing | Max Altitude : 6429

A challenging Himalayan climb | Spectacular views of Annapurna | Learn moderate technical climbing climbing two 6000m peaks

About Chulu East Peak Climbing

Chulu East 6429m peak is located north of the Annapurna massif, just across the Manang Valley. Chulu East is a part of the Chulu range, which consists of 6429m Chulu East, 6029m Chulu Far East, 6538m Chulu Central and 6419m Chulu West.

The climb is a second to none climbing objective in Nepal for a novice climber in a guiding arrangement. First we execute the Chulu Far East climb as a part of the acclimatization. This follows Chulu East climb in a stunning alpine setting with the views of all Annapurna massif peaks. The 800m route is a semi-technical climbing with short faces and an exciting exposed ridge to the summit. IMA climbs are scheduled for best weather in spring and autumn seasons.

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Highlights

  • Exciting Semi-technical climb, physiological challenge
  • Annapurna massif views from the summit
  • Safety | qualification | experience | quality
  • Sherpa operated Australian company
  • Well-designed acclimatization
  • Trained Sherpa Climbing Guides

Departures

Autumn 2017:

Oct 15

Spring 2018:

Mar 18

  • Description
  • Itinerary
  • Services
  • FAQS
  • Gear
  • Map
 

About Chulu East Peak Climbing

Chulu East 6429m peak is located north of the Annapurna massif (28°43'28.64"N 84° 3'8.74"E). With its stunning alpine setting, technical aspects, spectacular 800m route and short access, it is a second to none climbing objective in Nepal. It is suitable for a novice climber in a guiding arrangement. Chulu East is a part of the Chulu range, which consists of 6429m Chulu East, 6029m Chulu Far East, 6538m Chulu Central and 6419m Chulu West.

The Chulu East route is not difficult but it is convoluted. It requires a trained Sherpa guide to reach the summit. While most of companies take climbers to the Chulu Far East summit only, IMA Sherpa guides take our clients safely to the real Chulu East summit as advertized. We climb the Chulu Far East as a part of acclimatization. It takes about 6 hours to summit Chulu East from camp 1 and 3 hours for the return.

IMA focuses exclusively on the client success with the climb, ensuring safety, comfort and an enjoyable climbing experience. The IMA innovative strategy maximizes acclimatization and climbing time by limiting the unproductive trekking time. This maximizes holiday value for our professional and executive clients. All our climbing adventures are designed by an exercise physiologist.

IMA conducts a western style climbing training for our Sherpa guides. We equip our guides with an appropriate climbing equipment and train the staff on its use.

IMA climbs are scheduled for best weather in spring and autumn seasons.

IMA offers a preparation program in Australia and provides our clients with a sound advice on preparations designed by an exercise physiologist specializing in high altitude training. So your adventure is also an opportunity to learn new skills.

As a part of the program you will learn basic climbing techniques to allow you sufficient skills to reach the summit. You will also rceive an advise how to prepare physically with an adequate endurance level.

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu | Transfer

Day 2: Kathmandu Rest | Preparation

Day 3: Private Transport to Besisahar

Day 4: Jeep to Chame

Day 5: Trek to Upper Pisang

Day 6: Trek to Braka via Gyaru

Day 7: Hike to Icy Lake | Acclimatization

Day 8-9: Trek to Chulu East Basecamp

Day 10: Climb Chulu Far East

Day 11: Trek to Chulu East C1

Day 12: Climb Chulu East

Day 13-14: Down climb to Braka/Rest Day

Day 15: Jeep to Chame

Day 16: Jeep to Besisahar

Day 17: Private Transport to Kathmandu

Day 18: Airport Transfer | Departure

Your adventure price includes:

  • Airport Welcome|Transfers
  • Hotel in Kathmandu|Besisahar|Breakfast Included.
  • Required Staff on Trek|Climb
  • Private Jeep Transport
  • Climb Camping Food|Equipment
  • Lodging (B|L|D) during the trek.
  • TIMS Card
  • NMA permit to climb Chulu Peaks
  • Staff Lodgings|Salary|Insurance|Equipment.
  • Group First Aid Medical Kit|Staff trained in use
  • Documentation|Office Service|Government Taxes
  • Comprehensive Pre-departure Information
  • Sound Advice|Guided Preparations.
  • Celebration Dinner in Kathmandu
  • Experienced High altitude Sherpa Climbing Guide
  • Tents, Food and insurance for Sherpa's
  • Required fixed|dynamic rope during climbing period
  • Porter Service|20kg Baggage Allowance

Infinite Mountain Adventure (IMA) operates Chulu East climb in spring and autumn seasons. IMA Chulu East and Far East climbing combo offers a spectacular semi-technical 6000m climbing in a safe and quality environment. Chulu East climb is a very physical undertaking with ridge climb in stunning alpine scenery and with 6000m acclimatization on Chulu Far East. There is no climbing or mountaineering experience required, just high level of endurance fitness. IMA will provide guided preparations for our clients.

Our guides are experienced and qualified young Sherpas from Kanchenjunga area. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. So apart of professionalism you can expect warmth and genuine hospitality of Sherpa and Tibetan culture.

Our staff is young, energetic and experience in customer relationship and technical climbing through our training program and practical experience. Our climbers are the only guides trained in western style climbing, critical thinking and ethical behaviour. Our guides are our business partners and participate in profit sharing scheme.

Simply click on SERVICES TAB, where you find all inclusions. If this is insufficient please Email Us.

Absolutely not, your gear will be delivered to Chulu BC by a combination of jeep, horse and porter.

During the trek we will offer food in local lodges cooked to western taste. We employ trained high altitude cook. In the kitchen we attempt to provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. Sufficient drinking water will be provided from melting the snow. Hot drinks will be available in the BC and High Camps.

All foreign visitors to Nepal with exception of Indian nationals require Nepali visa. Passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, United States and all European countries are eligible for the visa on arrival. Since spring 2015 Nepali Immigration has introduced computerized automated visa system making arrival Immigration process fast and convenient. You will require 1 month visa for this trip.

Yes the Chulu East climbing permit and Annapurna Conservation permit are included in the package and we will organize them prior to your arrival to Kathmandu. We will pick you up from your flight and transfer you to your hotel.

Yes our representative will pick you up from Tribuvan International airport and will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor time of your arrival and we will be there on-time. All you need to do is to collect your luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International terminal is very small. Once you outside the building you will easily see your name displayed by our representative, who will transfer to the hotel.

In Kathmandu we use newly build Hotel De Veda, which meets earthquake proof building code and is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Besisahar we offer resort style accommodation and lodge accommodation on the trek with 3 meals included. During the climb we set-up kitchen and dining facilities in the basecamp and utilize freeze-dry food for high camps.

Yes you need -20°C sleeping bag if you like sleeping warm and cosy however one can get away with -10°C rated sleeping if sleeping in down jacket inside the sleeping bag. All lodges on the way provide warm blankets and Besishar resort and Braka lodge are full service hotels.

Yes we will provide quality base matt in the base camp and down filled Thermarest style of airbed for the basecamp and high camps.

Simply click on GEAR TAB, where you find recommended Gear List. If this is insufficient please Email Us.

We recommend purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from Keamp8848 in Kathmandu. We use their gear as our personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands but for fraction of the cost.

You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

IMA recommends quality over price for comfort and safety and long term savings. Quality can be expensive but it doesn't have to be if one select right gear from right OEM. Naturally there is budget advantage of buying from quality Nepali OEM and you will pay 25-50% for similar or better designed Nepali gear comparing to leading US or European brands. We use and recommend Keamp8848 for quality, innovative design and the price. Your guide will direct you to Keamp8848 factory showroom in Thamel located only 5 minutes' walk from ouir hotel. You should consider purchasing your Gore-Tex climbing/trekking jacket, Gore-Tex over pants, Fleece jacket and down jacket in Kathmandu. Another Nepali OEM to consider is Sonam brand, which has comparable pricing to Keamp8848, however quality of fabric is different and it lacks innovative design features of Keamp8848, our preferred and recommended OEM.

Climbing hardware is readily available in numerous trekking/climbing stores in Kathmandu, so you don't need to bring them on the plane and save the weight of your luggage. We will advise you details within you info pack.

Apply Layering Principle while Trekking and Climbing

While biking and trekking in any mountainous undulating environment and in particularly at high altitudes where the weather is also a subject to rapid changes one needs to adopt layering principle with clothing to regulate body temperature ensuring that the body temperature stays in comfortable range to prevent excessive sweating followed by rapid cooling. When you start the day wear sufficient number of layers to keep warm but as soon as you feel overheating remove a layer on the go quickly to prevent unnecessary overheating and sweating.

Take advantage of Merino Wool as a first layer

For layer one garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilizes the best quality material. No other company can at this stage (spring 2015) match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breathing-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm.

Utilize Merino Moisture Wicking, Insulation and Antibacterial Properties

The process of taking the moisture away from the body is called wicking. Wool and synthetic fabrics are really good wicking materials hence they are very suitable to wear for hard physical activity such as trekking, mountain biking and climbing. Due to its natural nano-tube construction wool has also antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is bike riding, trekking and climbing. Using cotton shirts for trekking, mountain biking or climbing in high altitude is a wrong and dangerous approach, which can lead to hypothermia.

We have incorporated acclimatization into the climbing sequence and appropriately scheduled approach by high altitude exercize physiologist, so there is no need for prior acclimatization. The only requirements is high level of endurance fitness.

Our philosophy is to maximize acclimatization and the climb and to minimize pointless and exhaustive trekking. We are climbing business with extensive climbing experience. By the time you reach the Basecamp you will be ready to climb and not exhausted. We climb 6019m high Chulu Far East as a acclimatization climb for East as well for our special traverse climb of the entire Chulu range. We execute Chulu East climb from C1 in spring and with intermittent C2 in autumn.

The risks during the Chulu East or Chulu Traverse climb are potential to develop AMS, gastric problems or physical injury such as bleeding. IMA maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. We have appropriately equipped and up-to-dated First Aid Kit and train staff how to use it effectively. We require each group member to have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac. We treat AMS, gastric issues, and bleeding. If required we activate emergency evacuation by helicopter, so we require all climbers to obtain Travel insurance to cover helicopter evacuation and medical expenses.

There are some risks associated with natures' activities such as excessive unseasonal snowfall or landslide blocking the path and potential earthquake. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our adventure, which includes double back-up communication channels to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compering to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

Acute Altitude Sickness (AMS) is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.

Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 2,800 metres (9,200ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude thus it is vital you monitor your own health. In principle higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.

Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms of severe AMS case include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatise and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?

Most travellers are able to successfully acclimatise by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.

Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor your all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS.We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help you to carry your day pack or change a pace, take extra day rest or descent if necessary.

Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

Chulu climb includes two 6000m peaks climbed in succession so it is a very serious physiological undertaking with some technical aspect. You should be in general good physical shape to start with. Generally our customers for Shishapangma expedition are bike riders or recreational runners and many test themselves with occasional 10km city fun runs or 50km mountain bike rides or 100km road rides. Considerable number of clients have at some stage completed marathon run. You don't need to be competitive just to be able to complete run or ride within average event time. If you completed one of the above within last 6 months you are well pre-qualifying and ready for Shishapangma expedition.

If you are in a good shape, the only thing you have to do now is 3 month ramp-up before the adventure. You should aim to jog three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain continuous exercise. To prepare for that you should preference outdoor step training or riding hills minimum twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more enjoyable the ride will be and you will also get more benefits out of the adventure.

There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

WHY DO IT?...

Part of doing the adventure is the aspect of motivation, and setting your goals and meeting them. The adventure participation will be beneficial to you in all aspects of your personal and professional endeavours. Our exercise suggestions are designed for you get fitter and hopefully influence your healthy lifestyle as result of the ride.

Please ask us for detailed advice.

The adventure is scheduled during the best weather period in the area. Manang and Mustang areas are semi desert areas with low precipitation, however with dramatic climate change we see disturbance of weather patterns with unusual precipitation and unpredictable cold weather snaps, so you have to be prepared for that with extra warm gear. Please check average temperature and precipitation in Manang.

Absolutely, we welcome individual travellers on our fixed departure but we reserve the right to cancel the departure due to insufficient participation and to offer alternative departure. We require a minimum group of 4 participants. Naturally we will offer group prices for people joining as a group. Our adventure calculator will show you adventure of joining us together with friends.

Complete the booking form on the adventure page, select size of your group and required services and find out price for your group. Simply click on BOOK/INQUIRE button and give us required details. We will send you invoice for the deposit of 30% of the trip value. After paying deposit for the trip we will send you booking confirmation and Shishapangma Climbing Information. The balance is due 2 months prior departure. The deposit as well as the balance may be paid by bank money transfer or by Credit Card via secure PayPal system.

Simply complete BOOKIG/INQUIRE form and specify information you require in the message and we will engage with you by e-mail or if you prefer we will call you at the time convenient to you.

IMA Chulu East climb is scheduled during spring and autumn when the weather is typically stable with sunny days. A stable weather of Manang Valley creates a high probability for the summit success.

You will require an appropriate windproof Gore-Tex jacket, over-pants and down gear including down jacket. The IMA Chulu East climb is designed as an alpine style climb. We acclimatize on Chulu Far East (6029m) and climb Chulu East from C1 at 5600m. We will spend 4 night in climbing camps. You will require a -15°C down sleeping bag for the climbing camp at 5600m.

The Chulu East climb is a technically moderate but a challenging climb. You will require a minimum climbing gear including mountaineering climbing boots, crampons, ice-axe, alpine harness, accessory Prusik loops, karabiners, an ascender and a rappel device. Please click on GEAR TAB, where you find the complete gear list. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com with all questions you may have.

Tap on button below to download PDF file.

If this is insufficient please Send Email with all questions you may have.

Please note, that the Gear List is only a recommendation and you must choose the quantity of clothing ensuring that it will be sufficient to keep you warm and comfortable without an excessive luggage.

Tour Map:

IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West BC-C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Pisang mani wallIMA Chulu Peak Climb-Manang valley moonriseIMA Chulu Peak Climb-Manang Valley from above BrakaChulu Peak Climb-Grand Barrier from Chulu East BasecampIMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West Ridge above C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West Ridge above C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West C1IMA Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West C1Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu West path between Basecamp and C1Chulu Peak Climb-Chulu East from BasecampChulu Peak Climb-Chulu Far EastChulu Peak Climb-Annapurna Circuit LocalsChulu Peak Climb-Annapurna Circuit LocalsChulu Peak Climb-BrakaChulu Peak Climb-BrakaChulu Peak Climb-BrakaChulu Peak Climb-Annapurna I and Roc NoirChulu Peak Climb-Chulu East Ridge sunsetChulu Peak Climb-Chulu East Ridge past GandarmeChulu Peak Climb-Chulu East path to ridgeChulu Peak Climb-Chulu East SummitChulu Peak Climb-Chulu East BasecampChulu Peak Climb-Chulu Central and West

CUSTOMIZE YOUR TRIP

Airport-Hotel Transfers
Chulu Climbing Permit
KTM Hotel
Private transport KTM-Besi
Private Jeep Besi-Chame
Private Jeep Braka-Chame
Camping equipment in BC
Dining/Kitchen facilities in BC
Camping gear/Food in high camps
Guide-Client ratio 1:2
Staff salary/Summit bonus
Required climbing gear
Complementary crampons/Ice-axe
Luggage service to BC
Farewell Dinner
Prices are in USD


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